Download 32254410 Fashions of a Decade the 1960s PDF

Title32254410 Fashions of a Decade the 1960s
File Size20.8 MB
Total Pages64
Document Text Contents
Page 2

The 1960s_4C 9/23/06 12:26 PM Page 1

Fashions of a

Decade
The1960s

Page 32

The 1960s_4C 9/23/06 12:26 PM Page 32

32

The Beatnik Generation
Left Bank Paris
Under their calm and conservative surface, the fifties had been a period of
enormous change for artists and designers. By the end of the decade, some of
this energy was beginning to show itself in the changing moods of jazz, cinema,
and fashion.

In the Saint Germain quarter of Paris, the Left Bank movement had
emerged as long ago as the forties, led by a group of writers and artists who tried
to live their daily lives according to their radical new ideas, challenging
established values and conventions. Philosopher Jean-Paul Sartre and feminist
Simone de Beauvoir were at the center of a circle that attracted a wider group of
“bohemians,” including film directors François Truffaut and Roger Vadim and
jazz singer Juliette Greco.

Juliette Greco was a Left Bank fashion symbol, whether dressed in slacks
and black beret or her black Balmain evening dress. The bohemians of Saint
Germain gathered together to see Greco and visiting American jazz stars at
notorious nightclubs like Le Tabou and Le Rose Rouge—notorious, that is, to
non-bohemians. Another Left Bank style model was Brigitte Bardot, dressed in a
tight-fitting black-and-white T-shirt or pouting from behind a tangle of curls.

mThe jacket for Donald Byrd’s Byrd in Hand
album, released in 1959 but selling well into
the next decade, shows the trumpeter in
typical jazz-man’s casual turtleneck.

cJuliette Greco, jazz heroine of the Paris
Left Bank, caught in a self-reflective pose.

.A typical beatnik house in Liverpool in
1960: perhaps not that different from the
average student room.

Page 33

The 1960s_4C 9/23/06 12:26 PM Page 33

33

Page 63

The 1960s_4C 9/23/06 12:26 PM Page 63

63

Further Reading
A great deal has been written and published about the 1960s, and this reading
list is only a very small selection. Magazines and movies of the period are
another excellent source of information.

Adult General Reference Sources
Calasibetta, Charlotte. Essential Terms of Fashion: A Collection of Definitions
(Fairchild, 1985)
Calasibetta, Charlotte. Fairchild’s Dictionary of Fashion (Fairchild, 2nd ed, 1988)
Cumming, Valerie. Understanding Fashion History (Chrysalis, 2004)
Ewing, Elizabeth. History of Twentieth Century Fashion, revised by Alice Mackrell
(Batsford, 4th ed, 2001)
Gold, Annalee. 90 Years of Fashion (Fairchild, 1990)
O’Hara, Georgina. The Encyclopedia of Fashion (Harry N. Abrams, 1986)
Olian, JoAnne. Everyday Fashions of the Sixties (Dover, 1999)
Peacock, John. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1960s (Thames & Hudson, 1998)
Peacock, John. Men’s Fashion: The Complete Sourcebook (Emerald, 1997)
Peacock, John. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebook
(Thames & Hudson, 2000)
Skinner, Tina. Fashionable Clothing from the Sears Catalogs (Schiffer, 2004)
Steele, Valerie. Fifty Years of Fashion: New Look to Now (Yale, 2000)
Stegemeyer, Anne. Who's Who in Fashion, (Fairchild, 4th ed, 2003)
Trahey, Jane (ed.) Harper’s Bazaar: 100 Years of the American Female (Random
House, 1967)
Watson, Linda. Twentieth-century Fashion (Firefly, 2004)

Young Adult Sources
Powe-Temperley, Kitty. Twentieth Century Fashion: the 60s (Heinemann Library,
1999)
Ruby, Jennifer. The Nineteen Sixties & Nineteen Seventies, Costume in Context
series (David & Charles, 1989)
Wilcox, R. Turner. Five Centuries of American Costume (Scribner’s, 1963)

Acknowledgments
The Publishers would like to thank the following for permission to reproduce
illustrations: B.T. Batsford 11r, 20, 30r, 31, 32t, 35, 39l, 45b, 46, 47l, 49l, 51r,
52, 53t, 54r, 58b; Camera Press 10, 25, 28r, 29l, 38tr, 42b, 49r, 55t, 57, 58tl;
David Redfern 27, 54l; Kobal Collection 8r; Museum of Costumes in Bath 39;
NASA 11l; Popperfoto 8l, 9, 14l, 16, 23, 36, 42t; Rex Features 12t, 13, 14r, 15,
17, 18, 24b, 30l, 33, 34t, 37, 38br, 39r, 40, 41, 45tr, 53b, 58tr; Topfoto 6, 7,
12b, 19, 21, 22, 24t, 28l, 29r, 32b, 34b, 44, 45tl, 47r, 48, 50, 51l, 55b, 56, 59;
Victoria & Albert Museum 38l, 43

Key: b=bottom, t=top, l=left, r=right

Pop Art Art movement having its origins in
the fifties, but very widely influential on
fashion and much else in the sixties. Pop
Art makes use of ready-made images from
consumer society, concentrating the
viewer’s attention by enlarging them or
offering them in a startling new context.

Pucci, Emilio (b. 1914) Italian designer. A
doctor of political science and member of
the Italian Olympic skiing team, Pucci
entered the fashion world by designing
sportswear. His boldly patterned fabrics
for skirts, dresses and pantsuits brilliantly
captured the psychedelic mood of the late
sixties.

Quant, Mary (b. 1934) British designer.
Opened her first shop in 1955, and
founded the Ginger Group label in 1963.
Quant’s bright, simple and well-
coordinated designs were perfectly in tune
with the mood of the 1960s. Innovations
included the mini-skirt, colored tights,
skinny-rib sweaters and a range of wet-
look vinyl fashions.

Rabanne, Paco (b. 1934) Spanish
designer. Studied architecture in Paris,
1952-1964, and architectural background
led to dresses made from plastic, metal
discs and chains instead of conventional
fabrics. Opened his own house in 1966,
and continued to be a key influence on
the space age styles of the decade.

Ready-to-Wear Clothes carrying a
designer label that can be bought ready-
made from the hanger.

Saint Laurent, Yves (b. 1936) French
designer. Worked successfully for
Christian Dior before opening his own
house in 1962. His inventive genius was
ideally matched to the mood of the sixties,
producing a seemingly endless parade of
startling but much-imitated designs: pea
jackets, smocks in jersey and silk,
knickerbockers, see-through blouses,
pantsuits, and safari suits. Opened his
own ready-to-wear chain, Rive Gauche, in
1966. Remains a key figure in the
development of modern fashion.

Page 64

The 1960s_4C 9/23/06 12:26 PM Page 64

64

Figures in italics refer to
illustrations.

Abbey Road 37
Africa 6, 21, 24, 48, 49, 50,

51
afro hairstyle 24, 26, 50, 50,

51
Ali, Muhammad 22
Apollo missions 11, 26, 44,

58
Apple boutique 57. 57
Apple Corps Ltd. 57
Avengers, The 14

Baez, Joan 20, 22, 37
Balenciaga, Cristobal 8, 26
Balmain, Pierre 32
Barbarella 44, 46
Bardot, Brigitte 32, 34
Batman 44
Beach Boys 18, 19
Beatlemania 12
Beatles, The 6, 36, 36, 37,

38, 41, 55, 55
beatniks 8, 9, 32, 34, 35
beehives 29, 30
Beene, Geoffrey 18
Black Power 24, 51
Blake, Peter 38
Blonde on Blonde 53
Bond, James 30, 44, 45, 46
Brown, James 26
Buddhism 48
Byrd, Donald 32

caftans 49, 56, 58
California 9, 18, 22, 24
Cardin, Pierre 6, 26, 36, 37,

45, 46, 47, 49, 51
Carnaby Street 41
Cashin, Bonnie 26
Chanel, Coco 17, 26, 28
China 20, 48
Courrèges, André 26, 39,

45, 46, 58
Cream 52

dashikis 49

Day, Doris 29, 30
Dior, Christian 8, 10, 17, 28,

31
Disraeli Gears 52
djellabas 58
Dylan, Bob 6, 6, 7, 34, 37,

53

Egyptian style 50

Ferlinghetti, Lawrence 9
Fiorucci, Elio 26, 38, 53
Fogarty, Anne 18
Fonda, Jane 44, 46

Gaye, Marvin 40
Gernreich, Rudi 17, 44, 46
Ginsberg, Allen 9, 34, 34
Givenchy, Hubert 8
Greco, Juliette 32, 33
Guevara, Che 51

Haight-Ashbury 56
Hair 52, 57
Hamilton, Richard 38
Hare Krishna 48
haute couture 7, 10
Hayes, Isaac 26
Hendrix, Jimi 6, 26, 28, 53,

54, 55
hippies 26, 50, 56, 56, 57,

58
Howling Wolf 40

India 18, 48, 54

Jackson, Michael 6
Jagger, Mick 6, 26
Japan 6, 26, 51
Johnson, Betsey 17, 18, 26,

41
Jones, Brian 53
Joplin, Janis 6, 26, 53, 54,

55

Kennedy, Jackie 28, 28
Kennedy, John F. 11, 18,

20, 21, 28
Kerouac, Jack 9, 34
King, Dr. Martin Luther 18,

21, 48
Kinks 36
Kitt, Eartha 44

Kubrick, Stanley 11, 44

Lanvin, Jeanne 8
Little Richard 54
Liverpool 6, 36
London 8, 26, 41, 54, 57
LSD 53

Malcom X 48
Manfred Mann 36
Marvel Comics 47
Mashed Potato 30
Martha and the Vandellas

26, 40
Max, Peter 55
maxi-skirts 58
micro-skirts 58
miniskirts 15, 20, 42, 42,

58, 59
mods 12, 12, 18, 40, 41
Monkees, The 38
Monterey Pop Festival 54
Morocco 49
Motown 6, 40, 41
Muddy Waters 40

Nehru jackets 58
New York 9, 26, 58
Newton, Helmut 38
Newton, Huey 21, 48
Nixon, Richard 18, 26

On the Road 34
Op Art 26, 37, 38, 39, 42,

55
Oz 54

Paris 9, 18, 24, 26, 28, 32,
33

parkas 12
Plunkett-Greene, Alexander

41
Pop Art 38
Powe, Hector 30
Presley, Elvis 31
Pucci, Emilio 26, 53, 55

Quant, Mary 13, 15, 16, 17,
17, 41, 42, 43

Rabanne, Paco 46
Rauschenberg, Robert 38
Redding, Otis 53

Riley, Bridget 38
Rive Gauche 15, 17, 17
Robinson, Smokey 6, 40
Rolling Stones, The 6, 9, 26,

36, 37
Ronettes, The 30
Ross, Diana 6, 50

Saint Laurent, Yves 6, 8, 15,
17, 17, 26, 28, 46, 50, 58

San Francisco 34, 52, 56
Santana 26
Sassoon, Vidal 43
Sgt. Pepper 6, 37, 43, 55
Sly and the Family Stone

24, 26, 51
Star Trek 44
Superman 47
Supremes, The 6, 7, 40, 40
suspense jupe 28, 28

Truffaut, François 32
Turkey 49, 58
Twiggy 13, 42, 43, 57
Twist 30
2001 11, 44

“underground”, the 52, 54
Ungaro, Emanuel 38
unisex dressing 24
USA 11, 17, 19, 20, 21,

22, 23, 36, 41, 48, 54
USSR 11, 20, 44

Vadim, Roger 32
Vancetti 25, 26, 58
Vasarely, Victor 38
Velvet Underground 58
Vietnam 20, 21, 22, 23, 48,

55
Vogue 16, 57, 58

Warhol, Andy 38, 58
West Side Story 8, 9
Who, The 26
Wonder, Stevie 6
Woodstock 26, 27

X-Men 47

Yellow Submarine 55

Index

Similer Documents